Allen Meadows - Score: 96 (2023 January)

Restrained, pure and strikingly spicy aromas are comprised by notes of violet, rose petal, lilac, Asian-style tea and sandalwood. The gorgeously textured, even satiny, flavors glide across that palate while displaying an almost pungent minerality that also suffuses the wonderfully persistent if moderately austere finish. This is certainly bigger and more powerful than it usually is but it's remarkably promising, not to mention very classy.